August is an underrated time to visit Paris. In that month, it seems as though half the city has decamped to the beach. The streets are quiet, the blare of traffic having given way to a kind of Sunday-morning hush. And speaking of mornings, one...

 

The South Fork of Long Island is no mecca of avant-gardae cuisine. Like most summer resorts, classics and old time favorites trump innovation. And why shouldn’t they? At the end of a day at the beach, people want good-tasting wine and drink--not a meal that comes with operating instructions or a chef’s manifesto on a plate. Well, hold on to your sun hats! The Swiss-born chef Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, co-owners of New York City’s Eleven Madison Park, a restaurant with three Michelin stars, an eleven-course tasting menu, and legions of admirers, have opened a summer pop-up in East Hampton! Do not expect such signature dishes as celery root cooked in a pig’s bladder. The à la carte menu skews posh-casual with summer favorites such as a $75 per person fried chicken feast (fried chicken, potato salad, cole slaw, Parker House rolls, coleslaw, watermelon salad, and pie), fluke ceviche, and beef tartare with horseradish and cornichons, along with local seafood and pasta dishes. This being the Hamptons, the menu features the obligatory lobster boil, but what a lobster boil it is! At $125 per person (minimum six people, maximum twelve), the EMP Summer House version includes clams, shrimp. andouille sausage, just-picked sweet corn and other seasonal vegetables, tomato salad, and pie.

London’s restaurant scene has undergone many changes in the last decade, all of them to the better. But the real sea change came about in 2012, when the global financial crisis triggered an improbably wonderful shift in the city’s restaurant culture. Led by a loose-knit group of bold chefs, and following hard on the heels of the ‘bistronomie’ movement in Paris, the British restaurant revolution jettisoned the whole concept of ‘fine dining’ and the pretense that often goes with it. Which is not to say that old-school dining rooms with pomp and circumstance and bad-tempered chefs no longer exist. They do. But you’ll find the most exciting cooking at small no-tablecloth spots run by young chefs whose cooking is informed by both global influences and British produce. Here are five of the best of the new-ish breed of restaurants, all located in central London.

slide22 Not so long ago, Paris had a reputation as being a city in gastronomic decline, one whose hallowed culinary traditions have been overshadowed by new ones created by inventive upstarts in Barcelona and Denmark. But that’s not the case anymore. For every stodgy Paris restaurant that is coasting on past glory, you’ll find a fantastic one run by a talented young chef. Rejecting the formality of classic French restaurants, this new wave of chefproprietors is waking up the once hide-bound Parisian food scene. Many of its exponents trained under the masters, and often eschew luxury ingredients and fancy interiors. On the whole, they offer incredibly good value for exciting, sophisticated food that might best be described as multicultural--not ‘fusion’ but a happy marriage of French flavors and global influences. Here are some of the most interesting of the new wave restos. Some are recently opened and others have quickly become modern classics. All are worth a visit.