Make It Modern – These South Fork restaurants are embracing modernism in food and aesthetic

The word “modern” has many different meanings, especially when it comes to food. To me, it means a restaurant that has embraced both a contemporary aesthetic as well as a contemporary approach to cooking. That means using seasonal ingredients and new techniques that extend beyond classic cooking. The South Fork has several restaurants that fit into this category. Here are the best in class.

The Highway Bar & Restaurant

Open Tuesday through Sunday, this East Hampton restaurant, with its sleek and sophisticated interior design (which includes a double-faced fireplace) is a study in modernism. Chef Justin Finney’s cuisine borrows from many different international cultures, including Italian, Thai, Chinese, and French, and has had great success with their themed Asian Nights. The result is a restaurant that knows what it means to dine out in 2021.

Cittanuova

A sleek space in downtown East Hampton, this Italian restaurant serves classics, true, but also modern interpretations of old school favorites. Linguine e vongole comes with tiny, perfect clams, and a sliced, pasture-raised strip steak is made even more delicious by the addition of lemon, shaved Grana Padano, and white truffle oil. Guests can dine-in for lunch or dinner seven days a week, or take dinner to go from 12 p.m. to 9 p.m. A “drinks to go” menu is available for those ordering take out food as well.

Carissa’s The Bakery

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Last year, this East Hampton bakery and restaurant received a James Beard Award for outstanding design. The modern space, with its clean lines and muted palette, marries perfectly with Carissa Waechter’s food. In addition to a full roster of baked goods (the olive ciabatta enjoys a cultish following), the restaurant serves everything from whitefish terrines to “restorative” chicken soup. Carissa’s also serves dinners to go for a 4 p.m. pickup, with options like oven-roasted Scottish salmon with baby bok choy, enough for four.

Cove Hollow Tavern

Shiplap, dim lighting, and bistro-style seating is all the rage at this South Fork restaurant, where comfort food gets a modern remake. Instead of an average bread plate, the restaurant serves house-made sourdough with house-made butter. A Bolognese is made meat-free, with mushrooms instead of ground meat. And a burger is lamb with harissa, as opposed to the traditional beef version. Whether you’re dining in or dining out, this restaurant embraces the hallmarks of modern cuisine — and décor.

Armin & Judy

Black floors and white walls speak to a modern and minimalist aesthetic at this Bridgehampton newcomer, which serves international food rooted in fresh ingredients. A warm mushroom salad comes with roasted yellow oyster mushrooms and a porcini puree, while a dish of fluke crudo comes to life with the addition of ruby red grapefruit and puffed quinoa. During the daytime hours, dive into an organic Kyoto carrot soup with spiced seeds, or crispy fingerling potatoes with za’atar spice. The space also operates as a bakery, and is particularly proud of their baguettes, which shoppers can grab on the go.