Bavarian Magic

Es ist schwer, es zugleich der Wahrheit und den Leuten recht zu machen. This quote from German novelist Thomas Mann, stitched with copper thread into a leather wall above a 6-foot gold pretzel sculpture, is a focal point in the contemporary lobby of the new Andaz Munich Schwabinger Tor, opened earlier this year.
“It’s very difficult to please the people and the truth at the same time,” is the English translation. While thought provoking, it’s an ironic juxtaposition in a city such as Munich, which manages to be highly pleasing and a truly authentic representation of German culture at the same time.
Known for Oktoberfest, which draws some 6 million visitors to the city every autumn, Munich is also a delightful European city to visit in winter. Snowy nights and twinkly lights make this metropolis feel romantic and cozy this time of year, minus the chaos of its famous fall festival. During the holidays, its Christmas markets are a must-see, beginning right after Thanksgiving and running through Dec. 24.
Locals and visitors alike flock to Marienplatz, the city’s central square, to scoop up treasures like handcrafted Nativity figures at the Kripperlmarkt, as well as gifts like handmade soaps, beeswax candles and scarves. A trip to any of Munich’s numerous Christmas markets is also a feast for the senses, as the aromas of mulled wine and fresh-roasted chestnuts mingle with tastes of magenbrot (a spiced gingerbread-like biscuit) and powdered sugar-kissed Christmas stollen (a sweet German bread).
To savor more of Munich, soak up the contemporary art at Haus der Kunst. Housed in a Neoclassical building dating back to 1937, the museum is known for its avante-garde works — including an exhibition from Chicago-based Theaster Gates that runs through summer 2020.
From there, you can explore the English Garden, one of the world’s largest urban parks (surpassing even Central Park). A beautiful green space to explore during summer, it’s rife with winter activities, from snowshoeing to ice-skating to beer tasting.
No visit to Germany would be complete without authentic cuisine, such as wienerschnitzel (the century-old Kaisergarten in Schwabing serves one of Munich’s best) and weisswurst (white sausage traditionally only eaten in the morning). But as honored as traditions are here, there’s room for change, too. Case in point: Newcomer restaurant The Lonely Broccoli, which serves a meaty menu without isolating vegetarians, thanks to flavorful additions such as ash-baked sweet potato and savory cauliflower fritters.
You’d be remiss to come to Germany without sipping on local brews, but spots like M’Uniqo — one of Munich’s few rooftop bars — are rethinking the drink. With soaring ceilings in this enclosed space, clever bartenders serve up a unique vermouth tasting that can be paired with tasty bites like steak tartare on toast.
Back at the Andaz, the hotel itself is a playground for design lovers. Be sure to visit the restrooms downstairs (which are so pretty, they once held a blowout party there), take in the green wall of nearly 1,000 plants at the far end of the lobby (it’s one of the most Instagrammable spots on the property) and pop in for happy hour to the updated biergarten tables just beyond the check-in desk. As they say, prost!